What Parts Are Required To Repair 2000 Volvo S80 Rear Trailing Arm?

DIY: REAR Trailing Arm Bushing Replacement (2005 XC90 2.5T AWD with 120K)

- The usual symptoms: car drives "similar a boat" with vague feeling. Difficulty with alignment.
- Inspection showed cracked bushing.

TOOLS:
- Wrenches/Sockets: 15mm, 19mm, and 22mm (for the Advance Motorcar Parts Rental Tool).
- Wheel lugs: 19mm socket.
- Breaker Bar, the i/2-inch blazon.

- Propane Torch ($fifteen at hardware store) is a MUST, this allows you to remove the seized bolts/nuts with much less attempt.

- The cardinal thing: heat the "nut: side for 30-45 sec to melt mill Loctite (the rubber bushing may fume a chip!), and then spray some Pb Blaster and allows it to be sucked inside the threads as the nut cools downwardly.

- I used to buy plumbing adapters, grind them to fit etc. etc.
It is a lot of work to modify plumbing parts to make it work. Plus the M12 bolt does not have plenty strength to press the old bushing, which is often stuck with salt corrosion, out.
- IMHO, playing with plumbing adapters is Non worth it as we accept an alternative...

- Just go to Advance Auto Parts and rent the tool prepare chosen "Powerbuilt 23 Piece Brawl Joint and U Joint Service Ready - 648617". Oil the thread during use.

- If you buy this online, it is $150:
https://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-6486.../dp/B0028QGT86

- When you hire it at Accelerate Automobile, you need to deposit $240, once yous render the tool, they refund you lot $240.
So it is Gratis.

- Hither is a photo of the tool set up. Yous do NEED this "weapon of mass destruction tool" lol…
This rental tool is the ticket.

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PARTS:
- From FCPEuro dot com.
- Bushing is Volvo 31277893: Volvo $18; Lemforder $11.
I used Lemforder.
- I looked at all the REAR bushings. Just the Trailing Arm Bushing #3 is hollow from factory (it is now solid prophylactic). The balance of the bushings are solid safe. And so no demand to worry about the rest until 250K or so.

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Procedure:

- Cleanliness is the key, wash the motorcar the day before...
- Do one side at a time and use the other side every bit a reference. This has proved to be essential for me!
- Loctite on 15-mm commodities during installation.

- Use heat to your advantage: I estrus around the old busing (where the aluminum part of bushing meets the steel hole) a flake. Lemforder bushing in freezer overnight…
- NOTE: once all done, all basics/bolts should exist torque in pre-loaded status (as if you drive the motorcar), so torque the 15-mm bolt at the end when the wheel is attached and motorcar is on the ground.
- A slice of 2 x 10 woods, about eight inches long is very useful…

- Torque values are taken from "internet", so please verify the torque values yourself. I could non observe a skillful source, so what I include here is from unlike sources. Feel free to chime in re torque values.

- General rules in Nm:
M8: 24 Nm; M10: 50 Nm; M12: eighty Nm, M14: 130Nm.
Recall this is for dry out bolt, very frequently these bolts are coated in table salt/corrosion, so clean the commodities get-go.
Google "thread file", about $10. Thread file is a very good tool to clean the threads.

- AT 100K-120K, I guess it is safe to re-use the bolt, which the dealers do anyway. At 200K + miles, I retrieve information technology is a practiced idea to get all new bolt, but that is later for me…

one. Safety first:
- Chock FRONT wheels.
- Elevator the rear end, remove ONLY 1 rear bicycle and back up with jack stands as shown.

- For EACH side, I used 1 jack stand + 1 flooring jack. No need to crawl under the car for this job.
- Tire + wood under the motorcar.

2. Once you have the motorcar up with jack stand (notation that I used screw-type jack for this), jack the control arm up a scrap to let you to remove the 15-mm bolt.

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3. Piece of wood to create the space. Notation that the factory bushing sticks out on both sides:
- OUTER side: v.0-5.five mm or so.
- INNER side: 6.5-7.0 mm or and so.
Make certain you measured it.

- As well, the factory bushing used to exist hollow on the fore and aft areas to let the trailing arm to move dorsum and forth. After thousands of cycles, the bushing cracks. The new Lemforder bushing is all solid rubber. But I line it up with the vertical slot as factory. So utilise liquid newspaper or white pigment to mark it.

4. Various configurations of the "WMD" rental tool to show you how to remove/install bushing.
- Annotation that the rental tool is not Volvo factory tool, it is but generic bushing tool, so you volition accept to detect the right combinations that work for you.

- Basic principle of whatever bushing: pressing a bushing against a pigsty. The idea is to press against the metal function of the bushing. Do Non ever push on the inner department (where the bolt goes through), you will impairment the bushing. Since I worked alone, it was difficult balancing act, so I used an M12 bolt to help concord the sleeve in identify.

- On the "receiver" side, make sure the sleeve is big enough to accommodate the bushing. Sometimes when the old bushing comes out, it can hit the sleeve, causing the tool to bind, so be aware of this!
- When the former bushing comes out, information technology volition create some loud bangs from the corrosion over the years. So be set for this noise. Spray with PB Blaster to assist lubricate it. The large bolt is VERY POWERFUL, you should be able to press the sometime bushing out (with some bangs). If the big bolt is stuck, something is messed upwardly. Finish and verify before you damage the new bushing!

- The body underpanel partially blocks the big commodities, and so if the bushing is slightly crooked, remove it and start again. I sprayed some lubrication to assist information technology in. A bit of oestrus to warm the steel pigsty, plus frozen bushing helps reduce the force needed to press it in.

5. As mentioned above. Raise the command arm (watch exactly where to place the jack, it tin skid any time!) to allow you lot to insert the 15-mm bolt. Tighten this commodities ONLY after the motorcar is back on the footing.

PS: On the RIGHT side, I installed the new bushing from Outside ---> Inward. For the LEFT side, I installed the new bushing from Within ---> Outward (because of tool clearance effect). Do what works for you.

That is all, non too difficult chore if you lot use the right "WMD" rental tool for gratuitous…